Mon, 21 May 2012 02:31:22 +0000 1800 RB320 Owners Club ForumTutorials RSS
[i]The Sigma M30 alarm system has a number of features that many ma [Read more]]]>
[i]The Sigma M30 alarm system has a number of features that many may not be aware of as the standard Subaru fitted system has the majority of these features switched off for simplicity and to conform to European legislation. Just to let you know what can be done……..

[b]User Features[/b]
The following features can be activated simply by the end user, using the keypad.

To access any of the features below - turn on the vehicle's ignition, press the Radio Key button once, type the desired number from the chart below, then immediately turn off the ignition.

0 = Last trigger isolation - allows the system to be set excluding any circuit giving a trigger signal at the end of the settle time (i.e. allows the system to be set with a defective bonnet switch, without "false alarming" until the switch can be replaced)
1 = One Time Silent Arm/Disarm - turns off the bleeps only for the next time the system is armed and disarmed (only if the arm/disarm tones are turned on!)
2 = One Time Ultrasonic Deletion - Turns off the ultrasonic interior sensors only for the next time the system is armed (also possible by pressing the Radio Key whilst the ignition is still on before arming) Confirmed with 8 flashes from the vehicles hazard lights when armed
3 = Valet Mode - Puts the system into valet mode which effectively freezes the passive immobilisation and any other features such as auto arm when the vehicle goes in for service. System re-activated simply by arming with the Radio Key.
4 = Auto Lock On - An anti-hijack feature that automatically locks the doors and boot when the ignition is turned on and unlocks them again when the ignition is turned off (only if the alarm controls the vehicle's central locking)
NB This feature will only single-lock the doors on vehicles equipped with double/dead locking for occupant safety reasons.
5 = Auto Lock Off – Turns the above feature off
[color="#ff0000"][b]6 = Arm/Disarm Tones Off - Turns off the arm/disarm tones indefinitely.(Turned off at manufacture to comply with EU legislation)
7 = Arm/Disarm Tones On - Turn on the arm/disarm tones indefinitely.
[/b][/color]NB: Turning this feature on will contravene current EU legislation
8 = Displays Vehicle's Battery Voltage – 12 flashes from alarm systems dashboard mounted LED = approximately 12 volts
9 = Super Lock On - Turns on super-lock for the next armed period (allows the alarm to arm as normal from the Radio Key, but then shuts down the receiver). This reduces the system's current consumption if the vehicle is being left for a number of weeks and also protects against key theft, as the alarm system can only be disarmed now using the keypad and the PIN number, this gives protection even if your keys are stolen, whilst you are away on holiday.
[color="#ff0000"][b]* = Loud/Soft Arm/Disarm Tones - Toggles between loud and soft arming/disarming bleeps if selected (See above note in 7)

[/b][/color]
[b]Other Features[/b]
The following features are also available using the sequences below:

Before entering the sequence the system must be armed and disarmed. The sequence should then be started within 30 seconds of disarming the system.
To turn the feature off repeat the sequence substituting 0 for the 1.

Auto Arm – With this feature selected the alarm system will automatically arm a set time after the vehicle's last door is closed. Sequence: *17856*03*1#

Auto Arm to Include Locking – As above, however, the alarm will also lock the vehicles doors at the same time as Auto Arming.

NB There is a risk of the vehicles keys being locked inside the vehicle with this feature selected if the vehicles doors are shut whilst the keys remain in the vehicle. Sequence: *17856*04*1#


Auto Re-Arm – With this feature selected, should the alarm system be disarmed and the vehicle unlocked, but a door or the boot not be opened within a set time, then the system will automatically Re-arm and re-lock. Sequence: *17856*05*1#


[b]Further Features[/b]
The following features can also be operated from the alarm system, however, they will require additional units, relays and wiring as well as programming, so are best left to a dealer..

Total Closure/Window Lifts

Boot Release

Interior Lamp Illumination on Disarm

Hope that gives you an idea of what's available.
[/i]
[b][u]However, the RB alarm booklet states the following codes:-

[/u][/b][i]0= "Last trigger isolation" - Allows the security system to be set if a door, boot or bonnet switch on the vehicle in not functioning correctly, causing false alarms.
1= For future use.
2= "Excludes ultrasonic interior protection" - During the next alarm period only. (Also possible using Radio Transmitter)
3= For future use.
4= Switches on "Safety lock"
5= Switches off "Safety lock"
[color="#ff0000"][b]6= For futur use.
7= For future use[/b][/color].
8= Displays Vehicle's Battery Voltage.
9= Switches on "Super lock" once the security system has been armed.
[size="4"]*[/size]= Adjusts "Door open warning bleep" Volume, also for programming.
#= Programming security system.

[/i][b]It appears that the new alarm (RB320) has changed codes 6 & 7, which turns on & off the bleeps when the remote control locks & un-locks???
[/b]

(Information courtesy of Iggy!! )]]> Sun, 07 Aug 2011 09:01:44 +0000
12mm and 14mm sockets
Ratchet with extension bar (various sizes may be required due to awkward working space)Read more]]]>
12mm and 14mm sockets
Ratchet with extension bar (various sizes may be required due to awkward working space)
14mm spanner and 8mm allen key or socket

Firstly, remove the rear seats. Take the covers off the two bolts just below the seat base and remove the bolts (14mm) and then the base itself. Then remove the 4 bolts along the rear bulkhead at the bottom of the seat back. Pull the centre belt towards you and tuck round the rear of the seat back. The seat back is attached at the top by three hooks, so the back needs to be lifted upwards and out, to remove it.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20OC%20Thread/CIMG1757.jpg[/IMG]

This reveals the tops of the suspension turrets. The passengers side one is fairly clear, but the drivers side one has some cabling over it ....

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20OC%20Thread/CIMG1759.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20OC%20Thread/CIMG1760.jpg[/IMG]

Using a 12mm socket and ratchet, remove the 3 nuts from the strut bolts on each side. To make fitting the strut brace mounts easier, remove the 14mm bolt from each of the seat belt reels and detach them from the body of the car so they can be moved out the way (they also each have a small hook that goes into a hole in the bodywork).

Fitting the mount over the 3 bolts is quite awkward and will vary depending on the make and spec of the strut brace. The easiest way I found is to push the end of the mount through the hole where it goes into the boot space (taking care not to foul the pipes that also go through this hole on each side) and then ease the round part over the bolts. It needs to be raised at the back to align it properly (hence the removal of the seat belt reel).

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20OC%20Thread/CIMG1766.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20OC%20Thread/CIMG1762.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20OC%20Thread/CIMG1765.jpg[/IMG]

(the picture above shows the bolt that needs to be removed to detach the seat belt reel)

Once in place, the bar mount should be visible in the boot ....

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20OC%20Thread/CIMG1769.jpg[/IMG]

Do not replace the suspension strut nuts until the bar is attached to the mounts, as some adjustment may be required. The STi strut brace bar is attached by an 8mm hex ended bolt and a 14mm nut. Using a 8mm allen key (or socket) and a 14mm spanner, tighten the bar bolts. Once you are happy with the position of the bar etc, replace the suspension strut nuts and tighten. Reattach the seat belt reels by realigning the hooks and replacing the 14mm bolts.

With the bar in place, the strut brace should look like this ....

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20OC%20Thread/CIMG1771.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20OC%20Thread/CIMG1773.jpg[/IMG]

Refitting the seats is just a reversal of the removal process. Take care to make sure the 3 bars on the top of the seat back are hooked onto the top of the rear bulkhead and also the one on the seat base, just under the centre belt clip .... this one is very awkward to reattach!!

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20OC%20Thread/CIMG1776.jpg[/IMG]

]]> Fri, 22 Jul 2011 21:07:45 +0000
10mm socket with ratchet
Trim removal tools
No.1 pozi screwdriver

First, loosen both plastic s [Read more]]]>
10mm socket with ratchet
Trim removal tools
No.1 pozi screwdriver

First, loosen both plastic screws on the inner edges of the spoiler mounts, and pull out the plastic plugs ....

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20OC%20Thread/CIMG1763.jpg[/IMG]

Then, using trim removal tools ....

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20OC%20Thread/CIMG1784.jpg[/IMG]

.... ease up the edges of the trims, and carefully pull them up and backwards until they come away from the mount.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20OC%20Thread/CIMG1780.jpg[/IMG]

This then reveals the bolts on the mounts. Using a 10mm socket, remove the two upper bolts on either side.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20OC%20Thread/CIMG1779.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20OC%20Thread/CIMG1781.jpg[/IMG]

At one end, pull the spoiler towards you slightly, while its still in the mounting hole, so that it comes away from the other end. Then push it out of the hole nearest you, and the spoiler is free.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20OC%20Thread/CIMG1783.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20OC%20Thread/CIMG1787.jpg[/IMG]

Refitting is simply a reversal of the above steps!! ]]> Fri, 22 Jul 2011 20:35:33 +0000
The whole p [Read more]]]>
The whole process took about 4 hours from start to finish, and doesn't require any specialist tools. Its definitely best to carry it out on a good day, and to have somewhere under cover (garage etc.) to have the parts laid out and to store the seats while the carpet is fitted.

First thing I did was to remove all the trims, plastic screws etc that I could find. Starting from the back,these were as follows :

1. Two small covers on the rear seat base bolts.

2. Then the two bolts and the rear seat base.

3. Next is 3 large edged round plastic stoppers along the edge of the carpet, these just carefully pull out. The holes left can just be seen below :

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20Black%20Carpet%20Fitting%2020-06-02011/CIMG1678.jpg[/img]

4. Then remove the small plastic stoppers (one on each side) that hold on the door sill trims (trim and kick plate) and carefully pull off the trims .... they just clip into the door sills.

5. Push the front seats forward and remove the 4 (2 on each side) trims over the seat mountings on the floor. The two in the middle need to be pulled out at the front edge, and then backwards to remove them at the rear. The two smaller outer ones are clipped on by two "arms" at the front. These need to be pulled away (left and right) from the mounting, and then the trims pulled backwards to remove them.

6. Remove the two plastic stoppers on the rear of the pillar trims, so that the bottoms of these trims can be prised out, to help clip the new carpet in at the bottom. These don't have to be fully removed.

7. Remove the plastic square panel on the rear of the armrest, again to help feed in the new carpet.

8. In the front drivers side foot-well, starting from the door, remove the boot release and petrol cap release handles by pulling them forward. Lift up the small cover on the mechanism and remove the screw. Do the same with the plastic screw on the base of the trim. The trim itself should them pull off.

9. Remove the small plastic stopper on the sill trim at the door edge, and then the large round one (has a marking like a flat head screw) in the foot-well. Then remove the sill trim same as the rear. Do the same for the passengers side.

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20Black%20Carpet%20Fitting%2020-06-02011/CIMG1680.jpg[/img]

10. Unscrew and remove the large plastic stopper underneath the accelerator pedal.

11. Working round the top edge of the carpet, remove the next large plastic stopper and then the one over at the start of the centre console.

12. Unbolt/unscrew the two bolts on the footrest and remove.

13. In the passengers foot-well, remove the same 3 large plastic stoppers as above.

14. In the centre console, open the lid of the armrest and remove the two screws at the base and the two on the top front edge.

15. The two side panels at the front of the centre console need to be removed to help feed in the new carpet. They are attached by two clips (back and middle) which just pull out and a screw at the front upper edge. This is trickier to remove. On the drivers side, to gain access to this screw, you need to take out the two screws on the bottom edge of the panel below the steering wheel (one is just behind the bonnet release handle) and the plastic stopper on the outer edge, just next to the door hinge. Then prise out this panel (doesn't need to be completely removed) and you will see that this side panel is attached by one screw on its front edge at knee height. Remove this. On the passengers side, do the same with the bottom two screws and plastic stopper. Open the glove-box and remove the two screws on the upper edge of either side of the inside of the glove box cavity. The whole glove-box comes away, giving access to the screw on the right hand panel.

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20Black%20Carpet%20Fitting%2020-06-02011/CIMG1672.jpg[/img]

16. The separate sections on the centre console can now be loosened to help gain access to the edges of the carpet. The trim around the gear stick needs to be loosened as well, by lifting the rear edge up and backwards. Be careful to protect the areas around this trim as the bottom of it will scratch the surrounding area.

17. Next, text SAT.OFF to your Metasat number and disconnect the earth terminal on the battery.

18. Using a ratchet and (IIRC) a 17mm socket, remove the 4 bolts on each seat. Lie each seat back so the base is easily accessible, and remove the plugs underneath (two on the drivers side and one on the passengers). The larger ones need the small green slider to be moved back and then the plug pulled out.

19. Recline the seats as far forward as possible, and remove through the rear doors (I found this far easier than trying to attempt taking them out the front doors) by lying them side on with the front facing the outer edge of the car.

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20Black%20Carpet%20Fitting%2020-06-02011/CIMG1683.jpg[/img]

20. Now the carpet can be removed.

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20Black%20Carpet%20Fitting%2020-06-02011/CIMG1686.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20Black%20Carpet%20Fitting%2020-06-02011/CIMG1684.jpg[/img]

As can be seen in the following picture of the new carpet, there are two straps that go over the centre console. To keep these intact would involve completely removing the centre console itself, so I cut them and covered the edges in Duck tape, so I could try and stick them together once the carpet was in place. It turned out I could do this with the front one, but the one in the middle was inaccessible.

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20Black%20Carpet%20Fitting%2020-06-02011/CIMG1694.jpg[/img]

To remove the original carpet, these straps have to be cut. The gear-stick surround has to be lifted to gain access to the front one, and the part around the handbrake has to be lifted to gain access to the middle one. I just cut them with scissors.

21. The edges of the carpet clip into cable holders on the inner sills of the doors. These are removed by pulling upwards. I think there are 5 on each side. Also, pull the edges of the carpet down and away from the centre console.

22. Once this is done, lift the carpet out the rear foot-wells, and pull the carpet towards the rear of the car, carefully prising the middle from under the back of the armrest.

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20Black%20Carpet%20Fitting%2020-06-02011/CIMG1688.jpg[/img]

The car is now ready for the new carpet.

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20Black%20Carpet%20Fitting%2020-06-02011/CIMG1693.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20Black%20Carpet%20Fitting%2020-06-02011/CIMG1691.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20Black%20Carpet%20Fitting%2020-06-02011/CIMG1689.jpg[/img]

23. Fitting is basically the reverse of the removal. Put the new carpet into the car from the rear and feed the middle back edge under the rear of the armrest. Push the 4 foot-wells into place and reclip the edges at the door sills. Push the inner edges up into the centre console, and if possible, tape together the straps.

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20Black%20Carpet%20Fitting%2020-06-02011/CIMG1695.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20Black%20Carpet%20Fitting%2020-06-02011/CIMG1696.jpg[/img]

24. Before refitting all the trims etc., I took this opportunity to completely brush and hoover the carpet (having shampooed it beforehand) before the seats went back in. I put the seats in next, same way as before .... both through the rear doors .... and reconnected the plugs, so I could then reconnect the battery. The battery was disconnected for no more than 3 hours. The air-bag light did not come on!!

25. The trims, stoppers, screws etc. can all be refitted. I started from the rear and did the seat first, working my way to the front, doing the awkward centre console side panels last. Be careful when refitting the rear seat base, as there is a metal hook on the bottom of the seat upright (can be seen on the first picture, just offside of the double set of seat belt clips) which a small metal bar on the seat base has to clip over. Very awkward to get this in place, I had to squeeze my arm under the base to the back, to ease it over this hook.

Here are the results ....

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20Black%20Carpet%20Fitting%2020-06-02011/CIMG1697.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20Black%20Carpet%20Fitting%2020-06-02011/CIMG1698.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20Black%20Carpet%20Fitting%2020-06-02011/CIMG1699.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20Black%20Carpet%20Fitting%2020-06-02011/CIMG1700.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20Black%20Carpet%20Fitting%2020-06-02011/CIMG1705.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v322/Normste/RB320%20Black%20Carpet%20Fitting%2020-06-02011/CIMG1706.jpg[/img]

Have to say, now its in, it transforms the look of the car completely, and fits perfectly .... just wish I had done it sooner now!! ]]> Wed, 29 Jun 2011 07:49:32 +0000
a. Make sure the car is in a well maintained condition.
b. Check ALL fluid levels.
c. Replace the [Read more]]]>
a. Make sure the car is in a well maintained condition.
b. Check ALL fluid levels.
c. Replace the brake fluid if not changed at service specified interval.
d. Check the condition/pressure of all your tyres, Make a note of the pressures.
e. Check your brake pads for condition/thickness, preferably put new fast road/comp pads such as Pagid Blue pads in, front and rear.
f. Remove any accessory's not securely fitted.
g. Check the speed rating of your tyres, make a note of this and never exceed it on track.
h. Remove any floor mats from the drivers footwell.
I. Remove the spare tyre if you have secure storage.
j. Take some basic tools with you, enough to change brake pads at least.
k. Take at least one axle stand for when you change the pads.
l. Take some rags/swarfega for cleaning your hands etc.
m. Fill up with SUL/Optimax even on standard spec engine, you wont get more performance, just gives the engine more protection from detination. If you run on SUL normally put 1% octane booster in for safety.


[b]2. Spares etc to take[/b]

a. One set of brake pads at least, front and rear.
b. One 5 litre can of oil.
c. Some tape to cover your light lenses.
d. A helmet - you may be able to hire one on the day but check in advance
e. Some thin soled sports shoe's - aids with brake feel.
f. A tank of petrol - save you having to look around for the local decent petrol garage


[b]3. Pre-track checks[/b]

a. Recheck your tyre pressures, if one is down you may have a slow puncture which could blow when at high speed.
b. Increase the tyre pressures by 4-6PSI higher than you run on the road - preserves the tyre wear.
c. Tape up your headlights.
d. Ensure you understood the driver briefing, if you are not sure about any aspect, ask for clarification. Ensure you understood the passing rules in particular!


[b]4. First lap on every run[/b]

a. Never thrash the car on the first lap, speed up gradually bringing the oil/water temperatures to normal working parameters.
b. Gently bring the brake temperatures up to temperature.
c. Use the first few laps to get familiar with your new, rather alien surroundings.
d. Try and give yourself space front and rear, don't be tempted to follow the car in front too closely as you will be concentrating on him/her and not learning the track.
e. Get used to checking your mirror before and after each corner, you will be amazed how quickly some cars will catch you if you are a track novice.


[b]5. Rest of laps[/b]

a. Bring up the speed gradually if you are a novice, you will learn and enjoy it a whole lot more.
b. Drive it to your limit, remember your there for fun!!!
c. If you experience brake fade/boiling don't think it will go away before the next corner, slow down, it is very likely to be worse the next time.
d. If you feel a power loss coming out of a tight bend back off, don't keep it planted, you are probably getting the first sign's of fuel surge, if you keep it planted you are risking detonation due to a week mixture. return to the pits and refuel. This can happen with half a tank of fuel on board, don't get fooled into thinking it can't be happening already, it can.


[b]6. Last lap in[/b]

a. Do a slow last lap in.
b. Try to avoid using the brakes at all to give the disks/pads some chance to cool down.
c. Don't stop looking in your mirror, there might be someone still giving it large.


[b]7. Entering the pits/stopping[/b]

a. Enter the pits slowly, look out for kids/spectators - it is easy to not hear you coming as the pits are a NOISY place.
b. DO NOT SWITCH OFF YOUR ENGINE.
c. Allow the engine to idle for at least 2 minutes.
d. DO NOT PUT THE HANDBRAKE ON OR SIT WITH YOUR FOOT ON THE BRAKE PEDAL.
e. The above is to stop the pads from being destroyed by the heat sink effect from your red hot brake disks, stop on a level surface or arrange for someone to chock you wheel.
f. Let everything cool before you do your post run checks.


[b]8. Post run checks[/b]

a. Check the brake pads for wear, you will be amazed how quickly they are used up!!!
b. Check ALL fluid levels, You may never use oil on the road, you are almost guaranteed to do so on a track day run.
c. Check your tyre pressures, if one has dropped you may be on the way to a blow out.
d. Check the tyres for wear/cuts.

The above should hopefully give you some basic and useful tips to help you enjoy the day and most importantly both you and the RB5 return home in one piece.]]> Wed, 08 Jun 2011 07:52:33 +0000